I have a question about sunscreens; there are so many on the market and I don’t know what to use. Is it enough if my facial moisturizer already has some SPF in it, or do I also need additional coverage? Could you please advise? Thank you, Kimberly B.

This is one of my favorite skin care questions because there is so much confusion surrounding the use of SPF’s. First to address your question “is it enough to use my facial moisturizer (since it) already has some SPF in it”, in short the answer is NO. Here’s the reason why, SPF only protects from the UVB rays which are known for their ability to burn the skin. SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor, meaning “how long can I be exposed to UVB rays while wearing this SPF before I will start to burn”? What SPF does not protect you from are the UVA rays. UVA rays contribute to various skin cancers and are often referred to as the “aging rays” due to the fact they penetrate deeper in to the skin than UVB rays and destroy the collagen and elastin (responsible for keep the skin firm and less wrinkled). To determine approximately how much burning protection you are getting from your SPF take the number on the label and multiply it by how long you can typically remain exposed to the sun when not wearing an SPF. Example: An SPF of 15 x 10 minutes of sun exposure before typically turning pink when not wearing sun block = 150 minutes of total protection when wearing an SPF of 15. In this example a person who normally starts burning after 10 minutes has 2.5 hours of UVB protection when applying an SPF of 15. The FDA and the Skin Cancer Association recommend reapplying every two hours. As shown in this example if a SPF of 30 was used that would equal 5 hours of protection which is well beyond the length of time a person should wait before reapplication. Often time’s people believe if they were a higher SPF they are getting more protection but this is actually just giving a false sense of security.

On a daily basis we are exposed more to UVA rays than we are to UVB rays as UVA rays go through the clouds, glass (think about sitting by your office window or driving), clothing and penetrate down to the bone. If you have a concern with pre-maturely aging skin or just want to slow down the skins aging process than you should be using a UVA protector every day. Some sun blocks do contain UVA protection and the way you will know this is because they will state on the label Broad Spectrum UVA protection. If you really want to go an extra step at protecting your skin I also recommend wearing a topical anti-oxidant everyday like a Vitamin C serum (look for an L-Ascorbic acid containing serum of between 15-20%). On a final note, not all sun block ingredients are as effective as others even though they may provide the same SPF factor. I recommend physical sun protection ingredients such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide over chemical sun protection ingredients. Chemical protectors have a tendency to be irritating and provide little to no UVA protection. Now days there are plenty of cosmetically elegant physical sun blocks as opposed to the traditional thick blockers you used to see life guards wearing. Both zinc and titanium come in a micronized form meaning the particles have been ground down into tiny little pieces allowing for a light weight look and feel. There are also great powered (not makeup) sun blocks now available which make it easier to reapply through out the day without messing up your makeup. Just remember as with most everything, you get what you pay for and you need to expect to pay a little bit more for a really good sun protector but it’s by far the most important skin product you will ever invest in.

We all know that as we begin to age so does the appearance of our skin. The question then becomes what can we do to slow down the appearance of the skins aging process and how can we prevent further signs of aging from occurring? Assuming that everyone leaves their home, it becomes inevitable that we will on a daily basis become exposed to unavoidable environmental factors which can cause premature aging of the skin. Even with the proper use of Sun block we are not protected from air pollutants which cause free radicals to attack and destroy the healthy structure of our skin. It is scientifically known and medically documented that over-exposure to harmful environmental factors greatly contribute to how our skin will or will not age. Of course there is no denying that genetics plays a key role in how our skin will ages as well. I must admit I am quite lucky to come from an English/Irish Heritage, whom is known for their silky smooth skin. The downside however is this skin type also tends to burn easily. One bad sunburn at an early age may not show up until a person is in their mid-50’s, often in the form of skin cancer. When I worked with dermatologists’ I cannot tell you how many times patients would come in and be diagnosed with skin cancer to which they would respond “I haven’t been out in the sun for years and I always wear a sun block”! Many of the same environmental insults that cause medical skin conditions also contribute towards the over all appearance of the skin with respect to aging.

There are so many options on the market today offering the “fountain of youth” in a bottle; just simply rub on the skin and wait for the transformation to begin. How does a person know which one to choose? It is important to understand that all products are without a doubt NOT created the same, and certain ingredients need to be formulated properly or they will not do what they are intended (and suggested by the manufacture) to do. We will explore a few of the most highly respected ingredients which are cited for their ability to reduce the appearance of aging skin.

Loss of Firmness and Wrinkles:
Sagging skin got you down? Well then, there are two areas which need to be addressed; both the outer and inner layers of the skin. Treat only one and not the other and you will not ever get the results you are seeking. Think of the skin as a mattress with sheets on top. Inside the mattress is where the coils reside; the coils represent the collagen and elastin within the skin. With out firm coils (healthy collagen and elastin) the mattress will begin to sag. If you have a sagging mattress it doesn’t matter how well pressed the sheets are because the will never look smooth and tight fitting. Therefore we have to stimulate healthy collagen and elastin to produce deep inside the skin. Next we need to “change the sheets” of the outer layer of skin through proper exfoliation. The good news is there are two scientifically proven ingredients that simultaneously stimulate collagen (mattress) and exfoliate dead skin cells (sheets). Retinoic Acid (Vitamin A) and Glycolic Acid are the only two ingredients that can make the claim to do what so many other ingredients allude to. Retinoic Acid comes in many prescription forms which can cause some adverse skin reactions such as dryness and extreme sensitivity. Retinol is a form of Retinoic acid that goes through a one conversion process to become Retinoic Acid when applied topically to the skin. Therefore Retinol is an ideal choice due to it ability to act as Retinoic Acid in the skin with out the unwanted side effects. When selecting a Retinol product do not become confused between derivatives of Retinols as they are weaker and do not provide the same benefits. For a more sensitive skin start with a .02-.05% 2-3 times per week at night and for a more tolerable skin type 1.0% 2-3 times per week at night is optimal. Retinol in a serum form is the most desirable as it will penetrate better than a cream. On the alternate nights apply a Glycolic Cream in the range of 10-20%. Glycolic Acids ability to work effectively is based upon the ph of the formulation. It is imperative that the products ph be no higher the 3.8. When purchasing this type of product if the place/person selling it to you does not know the ph of the acid I would recommend looking for another facility to buy from as a high ph acid will be ineffective and is a waist of money. For “in facility” treatments Glycolic Acid Peels and or Retinol Peels will provide a more intense version of the home care options. For optimal results peels should be done in an initial series of six with each peel spaced two weeks apart. Any home care version of Retinol and Glycolic Acid should be discontinued 48 hours prior to in facility peels. It is important to note that these ingredients will cause sun sensitivity and therefore a SPF of 30 with both UVA and UVB protection must be worn daily.

Uneven Skin Texture
Often times this type of skin is referred to as environmentally damaged and leathery looking. The best way to repair this type of the skin is through the use of topical Anti-Oxidants. The most reputable Anti-Oxidant on the market is Vitamin C. Anti-Oxidants work by neutralizing the free radicals which are caused by both environmental and non-environmental insults such a pollution, cigarette smoking, tanning beds, UV rays, etc. Think of free radicals as pac-mans’ that are looking for a miss pac-man to mate with. Free radicals see your healthy skin cells and say here I come and in turn destroy healthy cells as well as cause damage to collagen. Vitamin C acts as a protector to your skin cells by blocking free radical attacks. Another benefit to Vitamin C is it has been shown to stimulate the production of healthy collagen thus creating a firmer skin structure. By applying topical Vitamin C daily you are increasing your skins protection from the environment. When selecting a Vitamin C look for one that contains L-Ascorbic Acid as anything else is a derivate of Vitamin C and will not be as effective. L-Ascorbic Acid is a highly unstable ingredient and therefore the formulation must be exact for in to act as a true anti-oxidant. In addition Vitamin E when used in combination with Vitamin C has shown to reduce sun-burned cells by as much as 30%. However just like Vitamin C it must be properly formulated to act as an actual anti-oxidant. For example, a derivative of Vitamin E such as Tocopheral is often found lotions due to its ability to hydrate yet Tocopheral has no Anti-Oxidant capabilities. The manufacture of these lotions can say that their product contains Vitamin E but that does not mean it is an Anti-Oxidant. Another area which often comes into question is the use of topical anti-oxidants verses oral ingestion of vitamins. Unfortunately you can not increase the amount of vitamins being supplied to your skin by increasing your daily oral intake. The body only allows for a certain amount of vitamin absorption and any excess is eliminated through urination. Although the skin is the largest organ it is considered by the body to be the least important and therefore only receives as small amount of what we ingest daily. Topical application allows for an increased amount in the skin and once there can not be washed or rubbed off. Over the course of 72 hours the antioxidants in the skin will dissipate. To always keep the proper levels of anti-oxidant protection in the skin applying your Vitamin C once daily is highly recommended. Also the use of a UVA containing SPF is necessary. All Sun blocks with an SPF have UVB protection. The SPF indicates how much protection you will receive form the UVB rays also known as the burning rays. SPF does not however protect from the UVA rays also known as the aging rays. If aging skin is a concern it is imperative to use a Sun block that contains an additional UVA blocker. UVA rays go through glass and clothing and are more prevalent than UVB rays so on a daily basis we are exposed to the UVA much more than we are UVB rays.

Lack of Hydration
You know those Geber babies, the ones you want to squeeze because they look so squishy and cute. Well part of what makes them look cute is that they are full of Hyaluronic Acid Hyaluronic Acid is an important component of the connective tissue that fills the spaces between the cells of the skin and other tissues. Over time, the aging process destroys the natural supplies of Hyaluronic Acid, causing skin to dry and wrinkle. Many injectable fillers on the market today are being made with Hyaluronic Acid, due to the fact that our body produces it naturally. When used as a filler Hyaluronic Acid plumps back out any areas on the face that have become sunken in over time. The other main use of this particular ingredient is as a skin hydrator. Hyaluronic Acid is able to hold a thousand times its weight in water. What this means is that when applied to the skin it will lock in your own moisture as well as draw in any additional moisturizing properties along its path. Hyaluronic Acid goes deep within the skin and provides increased hydration rather than simply providing the temporary feel of moisture associated with most face creams. This particular ingredient is known for its role in the prevention of Trans-Epidermal Water Loss which in essence means loss of skin hydration; which is most prevalent in women whom are pre and post menopausal. Declining estrogen levels have an adverse affect on the skins appearance with respect to both dryness and firmness. Our skin has estrogen receptors that are linked to the production of collagen, as our estrogen levels decrease so to does our collagen production. There are several soy based facial moisturizers which contain soy-isoflavons that mimic natural estrogen without the negative side effects. Some women are apprehensive about using such products for fear of an increased risk in cancer due to the products estrogen containing properties. If this is a concern one should consult there physician before incorporating this type of moisturizer into their skin regimen. Properly exfoliating the skin with the use of a Glycolic Acid and Retinol will also allow for moisturizers to better penetrate. For youthful looking skin just remember to Exfoliate, Stimulate, Protect and Hydrate. Exfoliate the skin and Stimulate Collage Production with the use of Retinol and Glycolic Acid. Protect with a good Topical Anti-Oxidant and UVB/UVA Sun Block and last but not least hydrate with a Hyaluronic Acid based moisturizer. Just a few simply steps and you will soon be on your way to vibrant, healthy looking and feeling skin.

I am beginning to notice fine lines, what kind of facial should I ask for?
Realistically, facials will unfortunately not help reduce wrinkles; facials do have some wonderful benefits such as deep pore cleansing and increased temporary hydration. However, peels, microdermabrasion, laser facials such as IPL photo-facial as well as BOTOX® will help dramatically with the appearance of wrinkles as well as slow down future wrinkle formation. Many of these treatment options are often combined with facials for increased benefits.

I spent too long in the sun and now have a sunburn, what would you?
Recommend. My first recommendation is to try really hard not to get anymore sunburns. Next buy an excellent UVA/UVB sunblock with any SPF of around 30. Lastly once the skin has healed get a few peels to reduce the appearance of sun damage. Remember when receiving peels it will be important to minimize sun exposure as peels cause photo-sensitivity.

If I only get facials every so often, what kind of facial would best suit me?
Irrespective of how often you get facials or any form of skin treatments you will need to receive a through consultation from whom ever is performing your skin procedure. This will insure the proper facial/treatment is being selected based upon your own personal skin type/conditions’ and desired out come. No one treatment is right for everyone so it is important to select a person/facility that allows ample time for a pre and post treatment consultation.

I want to start an aggressive routine for my aging skin, how often should I schedule a facial and should I get the same facial every time or is there a specific regimen you would suggest?
If you are looking to start an aggressive skin corrective program facials will probably not be as result focused as what you are seeking. Depending upon your skin type/condition and the specific issues you’re trying to address any one or combination of the following would most likely be recommended: Peels, microdermabrasion, Botox®, Fillers such as Restylane® or Juvederm™ and Laser treatments such as IPL photo-facial or Fraxel for skin tightening and wrinkle reduction.

I have heard of skin tightening facials, what kind would you recommend and how long do they last?
What you are most likely referring to are Laser facials. Maximum results usually require 3-5 treatments spaced out anywhere between 3-6 weeks apart. Results will generally last for well beyond a year and can last as long as 3 years if the proper post treatment maintenance is performed which will include good home care products and less invasive in office/spa skin treatments such as peels.

I battle breakouts on occasion, what kind of facial would best combat my acne?
There are a few different options however, most likely a facial that concentrates on extractions an includes a Salicylic peel will be best suited to minimizing breakouts. LED (light emitting diode) facials with blue light are shown to greatly reduce p-acne a common type of acne bacteria, thus reducing future break outs. Because it is often unknown exactly what is causing the breakouts a combination of different treatment options along with topical medicine/cosmecuticals generally provides the maximum results.

Dear Anna,

I hate to admit it, but I have to have my upper lip waxed periodically. As the mother of two-year old twins, I’m often too busy to squeeze a trip to the salon into my day. Is there some kind of wax I could use at home in between appointments?

Thanks, Brenda

There are several at home waxing kits that you can purchase at beauty supply stores, such as Sally’s Beauty. You can also order at-home waxing kits on line thru various companies (I recommend doing a search on goggle or yahoo with the keywords professional waxing kits). I also recommend a cream based wax that is microwavable. Hard strip wax will remove coarse dark hair while soft wax (which does not require a strip to be laid on top of the wax) is better for a more sensitive skin but doesn’t remove fine hair as well. Be sure to follow the directions on heating very carefully as it is easy to burn yourself and can cause the skin to rip off. There are a couple of things you will need to know before doing any facial waxing at home. Certain topical facial products such as alphahydroxy acids (aha’s) and retinols will make your skin sensitive to waxing and therefore will need to be discontinued a minimum of 72 hours before and after any waxing is performed. Waxing will make your skin more sun sensitive, so be sure to wear a sun block regardless of whether you are going to be in direct sunlight or not. Another option is laser hair removal. For a small area such as the lip the cost is minimal (around $250 total) and will prevent you from needing to wax. While laser hair removal does claim to be permanent many people find it necessary to have an “up keep” session performed a few years after the initial procedure. However, for a small area (and with prices constantly coming down) the cost for an “up keep” session should also be minimal. One thing I don’t recommend (which many people do) is going to a “quickie” nail salon that also does facial waxing. The convenience of not needing an appointment at facilities such as these have there appeal for people on the go. However it is important to research any facility before entrusting them with services such as waxing.

Best of Luck to you, Anna

Dear Anna,

I’d like to know more about manicures. When I used to have my cuticles cut back, my nails looked beautiful and had that scrubbed, clean look. After my manicurist moved, I went to another and when I saw she was pushing my cuticles back instead of cutting them back with a little clipper, I asked her why. She said that method caused infection and it wasn’t done anymore. So, I’d like to know more about manicures in general.

Thanks, Shelly

Great question! With so much in the news lately about the unsafe practices of many nail salons and so called nail professionals I think it is important to shed some educated light on this topic. First to answer you specific question regarding pushing the cuticles back verses cutting them. While opinions vary within the beauty industry it seems to be a much safer practice to not cut the healthy part of the cuticle. In other words the preferred method would be to push back the cuticle and to simply cut/remove any part of the cuticle that may not be attached (hanging skin). There are many products now available to professional nail technicians which actual work to dissolve excess cuticle as well as soften hard cuticle making it easier to push back and remove with out the need to cut. As for possible infection from cutting the cuticles, if the implements (cuticle nippers and nail clippers) are properly disinfected with an EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) approved agent and contained in between uses in a sterile environment such as a sterilizing unit or individual sterile bags the possibility of infection is very minimal. However, if the technician were to cut you accidental as with any cut there is the possibility of infection not to mention that you can really never be sure that the facility/person doing your nails is following the proper disinfecting procedures. And while there is always the option of brining your own implements with you I would recommend avoiding cutting the cuticles all together. On a final note many nail professionals also believe that over time the cutting of cuticles actual makes them grow back harder and thicker. Just remember when selecting a place to have your nails done you very often get what you pay for (a barging is not always a barging) which can unfortunately mean a horrible bacteria or fungus infection (or worse) so do you homework and don’t be afraid to ask questions before making your final selection.

Eyelash transplants are performed under local anesthesia by a cosmetic surgeon. To perform eyelash transplantation, the surgeon obtains a graft of hair from the nape of the neck. The graft is divided into single-hair grafts, and any excess fat, dermis, and epidermis are trimmed in order to make each graft very fine. After anesthetizing the eyelid and protecting the cornea with an eyeshield, the surgeon uses a very fine transplanting needle to implant about 50 – 60 hairs into the eyelids. Each hair is implanted one at a time. After transplantation, the new lashes grow longer than natural lashes and therefore must be trimmed regularly. The procedure takes about 2 hours and cost around $3000 per lid.

As you can see the cost for this procedure is rather high although I’ve heard the results are quit impressive. And while RevitaLash® is not cheap at $150 a tube I would recommend trying it before opting for expensive surgery.

Best of Luck to you, Anna

Dear Anna,

I never had long eyelashes, but now I not only have short ones but fewer of them too. I’ve heard of products you put on your lashes that make them longer and thicker, temporary eyelash extensions that last a couple of months, and even eyelash transplants. Can you tell me more about these? Do they work? How much do they cost? And is there any risk?

Thanks, Lesley Ann

I am really happy you asked as me this question. As a matter of fact I am very familiar with a particular product that works miracles on disappearing lashes it’s called RevitaLash®. RevitaLash® is a product developed Dr. Michael Brinkenhoff as a special gift for his wife, Gayle (a five time cancer survivor), while she was recovering from breast cancer. Intensive chemotherapy treatments had damaged Gayle’s once-beautiful eyelashes, leaving them sparse, breakable and fragile. Soon friends and family wanted to know Gayle’s secret to beautiful looking eyelashes. Thus, a new product was born; and a formula created originally for just one special woman has become a product available to women everywhere who want to have beautiful looking eyelashes. This is truly an amazing product and an amazing company that donates a portion of all proceeds to breast cancer research initiatives. I can honestly tell you this stuff really works and is incredibly safe to use (no chemicals or harsh irritants)! As far as eyelash extension go…I am not a fan (sorry). I personally feel that it can potential cause more harm to your existing lashes and if not done absolutely 100% correctly looks too Tammy Fay for my taste, not to mention the expense ($300-$500 total) and upkeep (last only about 3 months).

Eyelash transplants are performed under local anesthesia by a cosmetic surgeon. To perform eyelash transplantation, the surgeon obtains a graft of hair from the nape of the neck. The graft is divided into single-hair grafts, and any excess fat, dermis, and epidermis are trimmed in order to make each graft very fine. After anesthetizing the eyelid and protecting the cornea with an eyeshield, the surgeon uses a very fine transplanting needle to implant about 50 – 60 hairs into the eyelids. Each hair is implanted one at a time. After transplantation, the new lashes grow longer than natural lashes and therefore must be trimmed regularly. The procedure takes about 2 hours and cost around $3000 per lid.

As you can see the cost for this procedure is rather high although I’ve heard the results are quit impressive. And while RevitaLash® is not cheap at $150 a tube I would recommend trying it before opting for expensive surgery.

Best of Luck to you, Anna

Dear Anna,

I have never been able to find a good foundation. I either spend WAY too much money or not enough money and it shows after I get it home and try it out. Is there a good Brand out there that is reasonably priced (and not from a department store) that I could purchase?

I am 31 years old and don’t have a foundation that I use all the time. For now I have a MaryKay foundation that I had tried on with a consultant – but still don’t feel I have the right shade. I always feel like it’s too heavy and I usually notice that where I apply the foundation my dry skin flakes show through.

So—I am either left with a face that has NO MAKE-UP and some redness or a face WITH MAKE-UP that has dry skin flakes.

Any help for the make-up challenged with choosing a good foundation would be greatly appreciated!

-Jaime

Dear Jamie,

Trying to find that perfect foundation is a challenge many woman face. You may find the right color but then the consistency might not be right or vise versa. I have worked as a makeup artist for many companies like, Laura Mericer, Trish McEvoy and Smash Box Cosmetics and all of these companies make good foundations. There are a few issues when trying to buy a department store makeup (and forget about the drug store). For one the lighting is awful and therefore makes it really difficult to get a perfect match. Additionally many of the people who work at these counters are not professional makeup artist’s and aren’t the best at selecting the right color for you. Additionally, when choosing foundation you want to make sure you skin is not going to react to any of the ingredients as many foundations contain some not so good for your skin ingredients. I highly recommend trying a Custom Blend Foundation. We customize a foundation to the exact color of the client’s skin as well as formulate it to the level of coverage they desire. We also have the client sit in front of an ott light which simulates light that would be found outdoors to determine the formula does in fact match their skin. The great thing is if for any reason it is not quite right we can fix it at any point, sparing the client from throwing away yet another bottle of foundation. I personal like to add a little extra yellow to the foundation, as this will correct an unevenness to the skin. If you can not find a place that does custom blend and you purchase a pre-made bottle here are a few pointers. Unless you truly have a pink undertone to your skin (which most do not) stay away from foundation that has a pink hue to it; instead opt for one with a slight yellow undertone. Match the foundation by making a stripe along the jaw line down to the neck Wait a few minutes before deciding if it matches as it will darken once on the skin (oxidizes). You want to match the foundation to the neck and jaw line area, this will create a more even looking complexion and prevent a demarcation line between your jaw line and where the foundation starts. Take a hand held mirror and walk outside to make sure it truly is an exact match. And remember additional color should not come from your foundation, that’s what blush and lipstick are for.

Thank you for your question as this is one of the biggest fashion faux pas woman make- wearing the wrong shade of foundation.

Anna,

There is a woman at my office who has the smoothest arms, no trace of any hair. I inquired as to how she was so lucky the other day, as in the winter my skin is lighter and my arm hair (which is dark) is much more noticeable. She told me she shaves her arm hair. Is this a > standard practice? I can just imagine prickly, dark hairs popping up! Otherwise, what do you suggest I do to disguise my unsightly arm hair?

McKenzie Pfifer

Dear McKenzie,

Unwanted body hair is easier than ever to get rid of and there are many different options for unsightly hair removal. While I do not think shaving is the greatest method of hair removal it is by far the most convenient (can be done in the privacy of your own home) and is the most cost effective. Shaving will cause stubble in between shaving sessions and some people are more prone to razor irritation such as ingrown hairs. Other at home hair removal methods includes Nair or you could consider bleaching. My recommendation would be laser hair removal; based on the description you provided on your skin and hair type “skin is lighter and my arm hair is dark” you are the perfect candidate for hair removal. Typically patients with light skin and dark hair get the best results (complete removal of hair with 3-4 laser sessions) and have the least potential for any adverse reaction. That is not to say darker skins can not receive laser hair removal but a different type of laser needs to be used than that of a lighter skin type and there is more risk associated. No matter what skin type research the facility/doctors office and ask them questions, a good laser hair removal place should have no problem agreeing to a complimentary consultation. I recommend finding somewhere that uses a Dynamic Cooling System, this cools the skin down throughout the hair removal procedure which is more comfortable for the patient and general avoids them having to use a topical numbing agent like Lidocaine. The down side of laser hair removal is that it is somewhat costly, typically upwards of $200 per session. If cost is prohibitive then I would consider waxing which cost about $45 for half arms and $70 for full arms. Your hair will need to be at least ¼ inch long (if shorter the hair won’t take and if it is longer the wax won’t lift properly). You will have to let the hair grow back out (a ¼ inch) in between waxing sessions. However, over time less hair will grow back and the remaining hair general grows back thinner.

Best of Luck—
Anna

Dear Anna,

I have heard a lot about Oxygen Facials. I am turning 43 this week and would like to try something that will give my skin a fresh renewed look. This year I have tried six microdermabrasions, a facial peel twice and six photo rejuvenation treatments. I have been moderately pleased with all of these but would like to consider an Oxygen facial. Could you please tell me what this is and what type of results could a person expect?

Thank you,
Kim Bautista

Dear Kim,

Lucky lady… you’ve got to experience some of the best facial resurfacing treatments currently available on the market. I absolutely love oxygen facials- the ones that utilize pure oxygen which is infused in to the skin with vitamins and minerals, not the imitation kind which simply use an “oxygen mask” (which does not work by the way). What is important to note is that oxygen facials while they feel fabulous and leave the skin with a temporary glow do not cause facial resurfacing the way the other treatments you previously received will. With that being said oxygen facials do have their place and have several benefits, and depending on your desired outcome may be a good choice for you. While I don’t think that this is why you would go for an oxygen facial, they are wonderful for treating acne, as the oxygen acts as a bacteria killing agent and the delivery system can be customized to include salicylic acid. For a mature skin it can work to hydrate and minimize redness, and again the delivery system can be customized to included vitamins and minerals. When sprayed through the nebulizer and mixed in with oxygen the vitamins and minerals become a fine mist (known as micalization) and can penetrate deeper into the skin for optimal benefits. Oxygen Facials are also very nourishing and calming which are great to do after a more aggressive procedure as they will help to remove post resurfacing redness. If you are seeking the appearance of younger skin that is more medium to long term I would suggest doing a longer slightly more aggressive microdermabrassion series that incorporates a medium depth peel or perhaps one of the new laser treatments like Fraxel. For a temporary softening of the skin and a clearer appearing complexion I would definitely recommend Oxygen Facials or better yet do a combination of both. Best of luck and remember 40’s is the new 20’s ….well at least early 30’s.

Hello Anna,

I picked up the last issue of Triangle Style and I have a question that I have been wondering about for some time.

I have recieved micro-derma brasions in a professional salon in the past and have been very pleased with the results. My question is... what is the difference between store bought kits and going to a salon. Can I recieve comparable results.

Thank you, Laurel Hamilton

Dear Laurel,

Professional Microdermabrasion, often referred to as the “lunch time peel” verses a store bought microderm kit are actually very different from one another. It is sort of like the difference between getting laser teeth whitening from a cosmetic dentist verses using store bought teeth whitening strips. There are several versions of professional microdermbrassion machines, my preference is one that utilizes aluminum oxide crystals not sodium bicarbonate and I am not a propionate of the crystal free machines either. Home kits are nothing more than an aggressive aluminum oxide containing “scrub” which you apply to the skin via a handheld battery operated sponge like device. To be honest the device is just a marketing ploy as you could just as easily rub your hands quickly in a circular motion over your skin with the scrub underneath. What home care kits and professional microdermabrasion (the aluminum oxide type) have in common is that they both use aluminum oxide crystals, which help to oxygenate the skin as well as kill bacteria. The major difference between the two is that professional microdermabrasion works with a vacuum like suction as the crystals flow onto the skin thus causing a minimization of sun damage, scaring, and fine lines. Additional, professional microdermabrasion helps to stimulate elastin and collagen (responsible for keeping the skin firm and tight) which home kits will not do. A word of caution, not all microdermabrasion machines are created equal. There are many cheap, weaker machines on the market, not to mention the type (size and quality) of crystals being used with the machine, so make sure you do your homework before selecting a facility to perform your treatments. Microdermabrasion should not be performed on someone with broken capillaries, rosacea, or active acne and is recommended in a series of 6-8 for maximum results. If you are not a candidate for microdermabrasion there are several excellent alternatives; my personal favorite is dermaplaning with peels.

Anna!

I am a new Mom and am having a difficult time keeping up with stylish trends. What is the latest eyebrow trend and how often should I get my brows waxed? I have dark and thick brows. Recently I had them waxed and I think the esthetician made them too thin! She also thinned them out with scissors? Is that normal? Please help, I have limited time.

Sincerely,
Harper

Dear Harper,

Lucky you… dark, thick brows, I’m jealous! Listen; forget about “eyebrow trends”, those need to be restricted to models on fashion runways. Eyebrows need to compliment the shape of your face and eyes. A well-shaped brow can transform a persons’ entire face and creating the proper arch can actually open up a persons’ eyes making them look years younger. Here are a few tips for achieving the perfect shape brows. First, brush the brows upward using a disposable mascara wand, next trim any stray hairs. The eyebrows should start where the inner corner of your eye starts. Hold a pencil vertically against the nose to the inner corner of the eye. Where the pencil hits your brow bone is where your brow should start. Lastly, take the pencil and hold it from your nostril to the outer corner of the eye. The point where the pencil touches the brow is where the brow should end. Creating the arch of the brow can be a bit trickier and that is where the help of a licensed skin care expert can really be beneficial. Unfortunately, creating beautiful brows is an art and not all “experts” are equally talented. It sounds like your brows were over waxed and thus thinned out too much. My advice is to let them grow back out and try again (with someone different) making sure they wax to clean up excess hair but tweeze to create the shape and arch. Remember this…. “Your brows are sisters not twins” so don’t worry about making them look exactly identical.

Best of Luck.
Anna.

Every year as we enter the summer months I am always asked about how one can protect themself from the harsh summer sun rays. The reality of the fact is no matter what time of year, no matter what skin type, the most important part of a person's skin care regimen is a daily morning application of sun block. With so many available choices it's important to understand the facts about sun blocks before making your selection. SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor and only protects from UVB (the burning rays) not UVA (the aging rays); both contribute to skin cancer. Unfortunately there are no immediate symptoms of over exposure to UVA rays, such as starting to "burn". Additionally, on a daily basis we are much more exposed to UVA than UVB as the A rays can penetrate glass and clothing. When selecting a Sun block look for something Broad Spectrum (provides UVA protection) I recommend a transparent Zinc Oxide, be careful of inexpensive SPF's as they usually contain chemical blockers which actually cause free radical damage, and know that anything above an SPF 30 provides virtually no more protection than an SPF 50. One problem with all Sun blocks is that most people do not apply the proper amount (a tablespoon for the face), however there is a new nanoencapsulated technology out from IS Clinical which provides 3 times the amount of protection with only a dime size application. Remember when you are at the beach this summer with your kids it only takes a couple of childhood sunburns to cause Skin Cancer years later.

Hi Anna,

I am currently 3 months pregnant and my skin is reeking havoc! I have broken out a little more than I usually do and have red blotches around and below my nose.

I have tried to use cover up and foundation and it just seems to cake up in the afternoon and it looks horrible. I feel like a teenager again that can't hide her red blotchy face.

Any advice you can give me would be great. I have been struggling with the red blotchiness for years and have never really found anything to either cover it up or make it go away.

Thank you. Sincerely— Jaime Clark

Jaime,

Hormonal changes in women during pregnancy and other phases of life greatly affect the skin. Treating the skin during pregnancy requires caution. Before beginning a new skin care regiment including any type of acids, please consult your OB-GYN.

Reading your question, I noticed a few issues to address. Your experiencing “red blotchiness for years” means this is not a new hormonal challenge but rather a condition that has magnified since pregnancy. First, we need to identify what causes the redness. Do you have a dermatologist? As I suspect this could be a minor case of Couperose – a condition where redness appears due to the presence of small dilated red blood vessels visible on the face (particularly around the nose). This occurs due to poor elasticity of the capillary walls. Couperose is usually an indication of Rosacea, which can impact other facial areas. Since you only experience this problem around your nose, please have your skin examined before making that determination.

Onto the excess breakout you’ve been experiencing. This is completely normal while pregnant, and you can expect it to subside after your hormones return to normal levels. In the meantime, many in-spa procedures and home care products are available. Again, the recommendation needs to be based on your OB-GYN’s comfort level. A safe option is a mild antibacterial cleanser, spot treatment with a Kaolin (drying) based product, enzyme peels, and a daily application of oil-free SPF, preferably with zinc to help dry out the offending areas. Transparent zinc products are available and safe for the expectant mom.

Lastly, makeup "cover-up" that results in a dry and cakey look likely indicates the need to exfoliate better. Enzyme peels will help with this. And I recommend using a mineral-based cosmetic (Jane Iredale is my favorite). Not only does it provide excellent coverage and look natural, but it also has healing properties. Remember, applying makeup is like painting – it looks much better when we begin with a clean canvas. The idea here is to first treat the skin, then enhance (not cover-up) with makeup.

Congratulations and best wishes,
Anna